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If you have ever had a fever, or red and itchy skin after an insect
bite, a wound with pus, or swollen glands in your throat: congratulations.
These are indicators of an immune system hard at work quelling invaders.
Food and Travel in Africa: South Africa, Egypt and Morocco
South Africa
No matter where you live, genetically speaking, a trip to Africa is a journey home.
Local women might have the world’s most inventive
hairstyles. Less attractive are the unemployment figures of 27%. And for the
young, make that 56%. South Africa has the world’s greatest economic disparity
between rich and poor. And it is a shining achiever of courageously sought
democracy and justice.
In Johannesburg we visit the Apartheid Museum and spend the day in Soweto where blacks were forcibly removed from former mixed areas. There are about 3 million people in homes that range from comfortable brick houses to abject lean-tos with streams of sewerage. There is also dancing, singing and a nearby church reverberates with passionate gospel. Without African roots there would be no blues, jazz, reggae, rock, samba, salsa, tango and more.
Cape Town is Joburg’s beautiful older sister. The coastline is spectacular with crashing waves, sharks, baboons, ostrich, pods of whales and colonies of penguins. I join a walking history tour and later one focussed on cuisine. We sample local cheeses, impala sausage, seafood, sweet Afrikaans curries and custard-mad desserts, stewed antelope, springbok carpaccio with pickled figs, sophisticated wines, and gin with rose petals. South Africa is not yet a significant food destination – unless you are a four legged carnivore. As a marker, this nation on a major coffee growing continent has had artisan cafes and baristas for less than 10 years.
Next we safari at Kruger. This national park is larger than Israel. Each day at 5:30 am and near dusk a ranger takes us out in high-sided, open-air jeeps with tiered seating for 3 to 7 hours. Train your bladder as there is no exiting the vehicle except for lunch in a secure compound. There are repeated warnings that viewing game is a gamble like going to Vegas. Fortunately the weather is dry and cloudy, which animals prefer for heading to waterholes.
Amazingly, we see ibex, antelope, impala, hippo, rhino, eland, zebra, Nile crocodile, warthog, mongoose, honey badger and wildebeest. Many are less than 2 metres away. Lions creep through long grass to eye Cape buffalo. A hyena family plays with their cubs. They have jaw strength second only to crocodiles and they’ll take on a lion. A leopard holds onto his kill encircled by vultures. Giraffes playfully press necks while nearby sentry birds monitor for predators. Mother elephants and baboons nurse their babies. We live half a world away and yet grew up with stories of African animals. Big magic.
A typical greeting is Sawubona, which is Zulu for “I see you”. See you next in Cairo.
Egypt
Cairo is home to over 25 million people. All of them are on the road at once.
As usual in a new city, I join a walking food tour and try tamarind juice; cardamom coffee; mint and vinegar drink; flat bread filled with hummus, fresh coriander patties and super crisp potato; deep fried brains (a cross between scrambled egg and chicken) and numerous nut pastries, sticky with honey. We visit a 14th century market where Al Fishawi’s has served mint tea since 1773. It is now well over 40 degrees. Summer temperatures can reach 55. Businesses and even doctors cater to clients at a milder 1 am.
No one got the memo about the dangers of smoking. But
there is lots to be awestruck over: the pyramids of Giza with their somehow
manoeuvred stone in seamless symmetry while the Sphinx stands guard; Karnak
Temple lit up at night in regal indigo; the Egyptian Museum with its towering
statues and King Tut’s gold coffin.
On my birthday, ‘Mariapatra’ is exotically on a 4 day cruise down the Nile. The world’s longest river is more than 4 times the length of New Zealand. The Egyptians invented the 365 day calendar to predict its flooding. Female commoners then could own property, run businesses and initiate divorce.
When travelling, I love my hour long buffet
breakfasts. Though most Europeans are GDW (Guilty of Dining White) and stick to
familiar pale starches, plus eggs. There are such usual items while I sample
the many pickled fish, fruits and vegetables; herb and spice seasoned soft curd
cheese speckled with caraway; eggplant everything; halva and comb honey; legume
stews with a side of couscous and whole grilled chillies; filo parcels with spiced
lentils. In the evening I try a national favourite: whole pigeon stuffed with
rice and raisins.
Whether on the pool deck or out the open window of my elegant stateroom, there is a changing scene of banana palms, water buffalo, donkeys pulling carts of raw sugarcane, children swimming, and men fishing out of small sail boats. We stop and visit the Valley of the Kings and its tombs of Queen Hatshepsut and other rulers with their hieroglyphics telling tales from 3,300 years ago.
At night, the all-male crew play traditional instruments and show us men’s dance moves with lots of arm and shoulder action. On the river, young men will hire an open air boat, play music and dance together just as our youths might get together over beer and pizza.
Morocco
“Come with me to the kasbah”.
The Kingdom of Morocco is mint and mosaics; cedar wood
forests, coastal life and snowy mountains; serpentine 9th century market
places; and the towering dunes of the Sahara.
If you ask for a cup of tea you automatically get a
glass filled with green tea and fresh mint leaves. It is Africa’s top tourist
destination and second only to Hollywood as a film set. Over 70% of the
population is under 30.
The current King Mohammed VI is progressive and upon
ascension immediately improved employment, democracy, human rights, women’s
rights and increased universities from 3 to 24 – and all free.
Arriving in Casablanca, I go on an old city walking
tour. Sampling a popular fermented milk drink I notice that glasses are merely
rinsed in a bucket. Good thing my immune system is old and invincible. We try
prickly pear – a type of fruit from a cactus plant; rounds of polenta with
butter and honey; ground almond, peanut and sesame cookies from a tiny adobe
nook with praise from the New York Times on its wall.
We head north and east to exotic Fes. Its Medina has
the world’s oldest university, Al-Karaouine, which was started by women. The
lanes are the narrowest I’ve seen with endless small shops selling intensely
coloured ceramics; live chickens; 5 kilo blocks of nougat and hanging camel
heads. From an ancient wood fired community oven, rounds of hot bread come out
on a paddle. I pull off sweet, nutty chunks.
Compared to Egypt, this is greener, cleaner. More prosperous and socially integrated. We dine at a riad, meaning a private home with a tree and fountain-filled central courtyard. Riad Arabesque is also a guest house with photos of visiting celebrities and royalty. There are vaulted ceilings, intricate tiles, chandeliers and a rooftop dining room to admire the city from. An array of eggplant, fig and other salads precede a succulent tagine (a conical clay pot cooked over charcoal) of spicy beef and dates, served with couscous.
Another day we stop to admire the King’s palace.
Outside a joyful Jewish Moroccan bride and groom invite us to join the singing
and dancing. Judaism preceded Islam here by 6 centuries. Later the French contributed
bureaucracy, language and the best patisserie and honest bread of my trip.
Near dusk we take a jeep and drive to the Sahara. The
dunes shimmer like sculptures of caramel meringue. Camel drivers undulate in
the distance as I walk through the sands – checking for snakes and scorpions –
and watch the sun set.
We drive past the pink, striated, Grand Canyon-like
sheer rock of the Atlas Mountains; the shock of green oases thick with date
palms; forests of cork; nomadic shepherds tending sheep and goats; fields of
argan fruit and roses for oil production. Morocco’s wealth is not from oil or
gas, but water for agriculture. This securely feeds its people and export
economy.
Marrakesh is softly beautiful with its buildings pink
from local clay. The vast souk or market here is a celebration of art, craft
and human enterprise with its snake charmers, palm readers, drummers and lively
vendors.
The seaside gem of Essaouira is known for its
walled Portuguese core. Numerous outdoor seafood
restaurants offer views of weathered fishermen in vivid blue boats and parasailing
youths. I enjoy spicy, stuffed, palm-sized sardines with a glass of local
chardonnay and toast the end of the journey.
With considerable frequency, clients sit in my office and list a sizeable range of nagging symptoms, chronic conditions, and perhaps their numerous surgical or pharmaceutical treatments. Just as common is to follow this list with some version of the statement, “My health is quite good really”.
To me this is an astounding assessment.
However with further questioning I have come to understand that what people mean is they don’t often have illnesses of the brief but intense, possibly bed-domiciled variety such as colds or flu. Another version of this reasoning is evident from ex-smokers. They remark incredulously that they never got ‘sick’ until they gave up smoking. There are similar reasons for both of these situations.
On my birthday, I ride a camel into the Arabian Desert and dine with Bedouins.
We start with watermelon drinks, camel milk (rich and nutty), and tiny cups of thin coffee served the old way while chewing a date for sweetness. Then creamy lentil soup and griddle-fried flat bread made by hennaed hands. The main is camel stew (tastes like beef), lamb baked below ground, rice pilaf, lemon and fattoush salad. Last is fresh fruit with luqaimat: small saffron doughnuts sticky with date syrup. Read more
Paleo; no gluten, grain, dairy, cane sugar or soy; with option for peanuts
Dark, moist and chewy. Rich with spicy flavours – and spices are high antioxidant achievers. Low starch and high protein helps regulate blood sugar levels.
Lovely as a snack, for lunch boxes, or as a morsel of dessert on a platter with fresh fruit. Or for sharp colour contrast, sprinkle a platter of Paleo Spice Cookies with whole freeze-dried raspberries. They and the coconut products listed are all in most supermarkets. Or serve a cookie beside a small parfait glass of Chia Pudding (see my 4 recipe options), or my Vegan Caramel Nut Ice Cream. Read more
Beetroot and Dill Dip/Topping/Spread makes 1 ¼ cups
Paleo; no gluten, dairy, legumes, onion, garlic or nightshades; with option for vegan
Fabulous colour that shouts nutritious good looks.
Excellent dip with sliced carrot, kumara chips or corn chips. Or for a hearty Chef Salad, you can toss pasta, quinoa or rice, cubed tofu or back beans, or steamed veg – or a mixture – with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on a platter. Make a depression in the middle and fill with the beetroot topping. Sprinkle with fresh dill or parsley. Surround with leafy greens. Read more
How many different plant foods did you eat in the last 7 days?
The average American consumes just 5. Dr Jeff Leach, of the Human Food Project, says good health starts with 25 per week. He aims for 55 to 70 (my breakfast alone has 20). A robust, well populated gut microbiome of diverse friendly bacteria is now linked with less risk for obesity, gut and mood disorders, heart disease and cancer. Read more
Lamb or Beef Red Wine Ragout serves 3-4 No gluten or dairy; low grain
Deep, dark substantial notes. Yet so easily done for all this rich reward. Many slow cooking cuts can be used to melt into submission. Stewing cuts such as lamb shoulder or beef blade are good options; they are cheaper and have more flavour. I was more adventurous and used sheep heart. All are top sources of several B vitamins including B12 (which has no active and thus absorbable plant sources) and highly absorbable iron and zinc.
“Rah-goo” is a French term for a thick stew of meat or fish – with or without vegetables. Serve with a vegetable mash such as kumara, Brussels sprouts, pumpkin and garlic. Steam, then coarsely mash with preferred milk option, olive oil, Harker or Pacific Harvest sea salt with kelp. Yum. Read more
Tender, flavourful morsels. Shape them as tiny finger food, substantial meatballs or oblong rissoles. Cook in 6 minutes or use a BBQ hot plate. Serve with extra chopped coriander or drizzle with homemade mayo or chilli sauce.
Accompany with salad, or noodles and cooked mixed vegetables (eg mushroom, red pepper or orange kumara, green beans or courgette). Toss either with a dressing of peanut or almond butter, tamari*, vinegar (can warm these 3 to soften and mix the nut butter) and fresh mint and/or raw red onion.
Layer left overs with lettuce, grated carrot and choice of sauce and place in wraps: nori sheets, 100% cornmeal tortillas, soaked rice paper – or use taco shells. Or serve with a side salad, plus rice or pumpkin mash. Read more